Although I’ve eaten in every single place this month from Adriano Paganini/Again of the Home group’s newest, Rad Radish, to the brand new Arepas Latin Delicacies and Fiddle Fig Cafe in North Seashore, these six newcomers (or new menus) stood out in September, masking the gamut, from Brittany-style French crêpes to NY slice pizza. Alongside this month’s full restaurant evaluations — the brand new Bar Agricole, Fort Level Valencia, Hazie’s in Hayes Valley, Adestria Sunnyvale, Bodega Vietnamese — I share what’s price tasting at every, with final month’s standouts right here (as all the time, I’ve vetted, visited and/or ordered from every place reviewed):
Caviar & Champagne Break: Tsar Nicoulai Caviar Cafe, Embarcadero
In November 2021, after a roughly 11 yr absence, Tsar Nicoulai returned to the Ferry Constructing with a brand new caviar cafe within the heart of the corridor. In fact, they’ve continued (pioneering since 1984) their sustainable Sacramento County aquaculture farm of native caviar, supplying eating places and outlets throughout. It’s a delight to have their cafe again, as I missed their authentic cafe 2004–2011. The brand new spot is a chill bar and some tables, a decadent break from the bustle of farmers market and Ferry Bldg. crowds.
There are caviar flights /service with blini and accoutrements. There are divine specials like their seasonal, eco-certified golden reserve caviar with its actually distinctive taste profile. There are little bites like a caviar cone full of property smoked sturgeon pate mousse, layered with caviar and chives. On the extra filling but nonetheless luxurious aspect, home smoked seafood charcuterie is a wealthy platter of smoked sturgeon and salmon, candy/spicy sturgeon, compressed cucumbers, seasonal pickled veggies and an irresistible home romesco dip. Pair with a stunning number of native glowing (like Goldeneye Brut Rose Pinot Noir glowing from Anderson Valley/Mendocino, or Napa’s Domaine Carneros Brut Cuvee) alongside choose Champagne, like Piper Heidsieck Brut — better of all, glowing wines are served in 1930’s-esque coupe cocktail glasses the best way Champagne was typically served again within the Nineteen Twenties-30s. A welcome return and worthwhile splurge.
// 1 Ferry Plz, Ste 16, inside Ferry Constructing Market; www.caviarcafe.com/san-francisco
Glossy, Intimate Bar with Nice Cocktails & Meals: Foyer Bar, Castro
Intimate cocktail bar and lounge, Foyer Bar, which opened April 2022, was simply what the Castro wanted. Connected to Lodge Castro (a brand new 12-room boutique lodge), the generic named bar is definitely not within the “foyer” however subsequent door. Nevertheless, enterprise companions Jesse Woodward and Blake Seely had been impressed by the nice lodge bars of the previous century. I sense whispers of London’s Savoy or Nineteen Twenties-30’s-era NYC in velvet banquettes and blues and golds lining the 8-seat bar and comfortable, open-air entrance nook. There are 7 traditional cocktails, a couple of wines and worthwhile home drinks. Suppose crushable (like a signature Foyer Chicken, riffing off tiki traditional, Jungle Chicken), a couple of silky clarified cocktails, or subtly attention-grabbing drinks that includes spirits I all the time want to see extra of, like aquavit and Haitian clairin (agricole-esque rum). My Truthful Haiti is a subtly candy, clarified milk punch of clairin, plantains, coconut, marshmallow, whereas Tomato? is an SF Summer season (our fall) refresher of vodka, strawberry rhubarb-infused aquavit, tomato, tarragon and lemon.
Their standout bar meals is supposed to be eaten by hand, whether or not caramelized onion dip scooped up with Yukon gold chips, or Inexperienced Goddess salad wedges loaded with roasted beets, bacon bites and cured egg, straightforward to select up with centered substances. It’s onerous to withstand corn arancini oozing smoked mozzarella in marinara and Parmesan, elongated in nearly cheese stick kind in order that they’re straightforward to select up. Gluten-free fried rooster karaage in miso citrus sauce exude juicy consolation. An enormous cheddar IPA bratwurst is doused in jalapeno apple slaw, harissa mayo and fried shallots, whereas spicy candy flatbread nails that distinction with Journeyman Meats n’duja, fontina cheese and sizzling honey, orange zest making it “pop.”
// 4230 18th Avenue, Unit A; www.lobbybarsf.com
Sichuan/Szechuan in Chinatown: Z&Y Restaurant, Chinatown
Although a bit dingy and perfunctory, ever-mobbed (count on a wait) Z&Y Restaurant from chef Lijun Han is nonetheless a Michelin Bib Gourmand advocate given its hearty providing of Szechuan meals, all of the extra desired after my adventures in Chengdu, China, residence of Sichuan delicacies. I’ve written extra in-depth about why the delicacies is misunderstood or solely partially represented (i.e. no, it’s not even near all spicy and numbing), and my favourite Sichuan spot in SF has lengthy been Chili Home.
However Z&Y (it’s too unhealthy the extra chill Z&Y Bistro throughout the road closed) has lengthy been an vital staple in Chinatown. Although heavy on purple chili spicy dishes, from fried rooster to flaming chili oil fish, additionally they serve a pair undersung Sichuan specialties, like mustard-y, vinegary, inexperienced peppercorn-laced fish and tofu in Sichuan broth. On my current return, the fish tasted funky (lower than recent), in order that was an enormous draw back, even because the broth was vibrant and vivid. However one other 7–8 dishes comforted, together with pork-ginger wontons in spicy peanut sauce and chili oil, rolled beef “pancake,” fried rooster underneath a mountain of “explosive” chili peppers (the warmth builds up quick!) Highlights disguise among the many starters, together with chilly Szechuan-style rooster, offal-heavy “Couple’s Delight” and visually pleasing, rolled chilly sliced pork and cucumber in spicy garlic sauce.
// 655 Jackson Avenue, www.zandyrestaurant.com
Ferry Constructing Breton Crepes: Grande Crêperie, Embarcadero
French-born proprietor Patrick Ascaso behind Le Marais bakeries opened a much-needed Breton-style creperie within the Ferry Constructing in March 2022: Grande Crêperie. There isn’t a changing the nice Ti Couz, which closed over a decade in the past within the Mission and made the most effective Brittany buckwheat crepes I’ve ever had, paired with Breton ciders in rustic bowls and different treats in an enthralling French farmhouse-style eating room. I lengthy for another person to do that idea proper. I additionally miss the neighborhood ease of stall/counter providing Crêpes La Vie, run by Emilie Le Pessot earlier than she moved again to Brittany in 2016.
Whereas Grande Crêperie doesn’t particularly fill both of these voids, it does assuage the yearning for Brittany crepes — and French crepes total. My all-time favourite, pure French classics are the place it’s at: La Full (French ham, gruyere cheese, pasture egg) and a easy Citron et Miel (lemon, lemon zest, native honey) flour crepe. Although there are a couple of outside tables, that is extra order-at-the-counter fare, topic to strains/farmers market crowds and thus extra chill on weekdays. This spot confirms why we want extra Breton-style cafes in easier-to-access neighborhoods for SF locals. However I’m grateful Ascaso went this route. Extra buckwheat crepes, please.
**Fortunately, only a week later, Grande Creperie opened up a Le Marais Castro window on October 5, serving crepes each day, 8am-3pm. Nice information and simpler entry for the remainder of town not dwelling by the Ferry Constructing.
// 1 Ferry Plz, Ste 46, inside Ferry Constructing Market; www.grandecreperie.com
Outta Sight Pizza, Tenderloin
Outta Sight Pizza has been round since 2020, nonetheless being served Tuesday by means of Saturday at Hayes Valley’s Fig & Thistle wine bar. However as of September 2022, house owners Eric Ehler and Peter Dorrance simply soft-opened their Little Saigon/Tenderloin slice store. A pristine white store with a cassette participant blasting heartwarming 80s tunes like Belinda Carlisle, it is a sunny newcomer within the tough, endearing Tenderloin. You’ll be able to order entire pies or are available in for a slice of skinny, New York-style pizza till they promote out every day. Whether or not fennel sausage with pickled peppers or pepperoni, this NY-slice choice. Much less oily than lots of the slices I grew up with in NJ/NYC, it’s nonetheless foldable-good, greatest reheated stovetop on a pan at residence. My favourite, nonetheless (after attempting 6 completely different toppings), is the thicker, sq. Lunch Woman, accessible by-the-slice solely. I’d like to see them supply skinny slice with this irresistible (fortunately beneficiant smattering) vodka sauce, too. The sauce stars over dry jack and dry and recent mozzarella, accented with basil and olive oil.
// 422 Larkin Avenue, www.thatsouttasight.com
Takeout Dumplings: Mother Dumpling, Park Merced
Open Might 2022, Park Merced’s Mother Dumpling (with an authentic location in Pleasanton) is yet one more of the lots of of dim sum spots flooding the Bay Space. Whereas my preliminary go to doesn’t warrant including it to “better of” listing, their housemade dumplings are price ordering when within the neighborhood. 5 sorts of steamed XLB (xiao lengthy bao; I like crab and pork), pan-fried dumplings (particularly sheng jian bao pan-fried pork dumplings), strong tan tan (dan dan) noodles and a palate cleanser of crisp cucumber in garlic sauce, all make a nice takeout/supply meal.
// 31 Cambon Drive, www.momdumpling.com
